Entertaining

A Hallowe’en supper for 4-6
With Hallowe’en coming up the track here’s a sophisticated supper for those of you who don’t have to go out trick or treating . . .
Hot Chilli Butternut Squash Soup
Butternut squash makes terrific soup with a super-smooth velvety texture and fabulously festive colour.
Serves 4-6
1 large butternut squash (about 1-1.2kg)
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
1 large onion - or 2 medium ones - peeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1 1/2 tsp each of coriander, cumin and paprika
A good pinch of saffron (about 20 filaments)
1 1/2 x 400g cans premium peeled plum tomatoes
850ml homemade vegetable stock or stock made with Marigold vegetable bouillon powder
Salt
About 1/2 tsp hot pepper sauce - or more to taste
To serve:
3 fresh corn tortillas
250ml corn or sunflower oil
1 small carton sour cream
3 tbsp picked coriander leaves
Heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Wipe the butternut squash with a damp cloth, cut in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Put 2 tbsp of the sunflower oil in a roasting tin, turn the squash in the oil then lay them in the tin cut side down. Bake for about 40 minutes until soft. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10-15 minutes until cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile soak the saffron in 2 tbsp of warm stock. Fry the onion gently for 10 minutes in the remaining oil until soft but not coloured. Add the crushed garlic, cumin, coriander and paprika and cook for a minute then add the plum tomatoes and their juices. Crush them with a wooden spoon and cook for about 5 minutes until you have a pulpy sauce.
Scoop the pulp out of the squash, place half of it in a blender or food processor along with any juices in the baking tin, and half the tomatoes, onions and soaked saffron and blitz until completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Pour the soup back into a large saucepan and stir in the stock. Add hot sauce and salt to taste.
To serve cut the tortillas into fine strips. Heat 250ml of corn oil in a wok over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes and drop in the tortilla strips a few at a time. They should puff up and crisp in about 15 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. To serve ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle over a swirl of sour cream, top with a few strips of crispy tortilla, and scatter over a few coriander leaves.
Wine suggestion: Big buttery chardonnays go well with butternut squash or you could try a viognier.
Beef, Fig and Chestnut casserole
I was inspired to make this by an article by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in the Guardian which suggested using chutney as a quick way to add flavour to a tagine. Coincidentally there was a jar of fig relish sitting on the counter of my local butchers which, together with a glut of red wine left over from a tasting, prompted me to make this deliciously festive recipe.
Serves 4-6
1 kg thickly sliced shin (leg) of beef, preferably organic
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and thickly sliced
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into chunks
1 1/2 tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp smoked pimenton or paprika
1 tbsp tomato paste or 2 tbsp tomato ketchup
1 tbsp plain flour
250ml full-bodied red wine + extra to finish the dish
250ml beef stock made with 1/2 an organic beef stock cube
2 tbsp fig relish or conserve (I used Trucklements organic fig relish)
100g vacuum packed chestnuts
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the beef up into generously sized chunks, cutting away any excess fat (but not the connective tissue which will give the stew its flavour). Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a casserole or frying pan and brown the meat well on all sides (you might need to do this in two batches) Remove the meat from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the onions over a low heat until beginning to soften (about 5-6 minutes). Add the garlic, cook for a minute more and then add the carrots, stir and fry for a couple more minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables with mixed spice and pimenton, stir and cook for a few seconds then stir in the tomato paste and the flour. Cook for a minute then add the red wine and stock. Bring to the boil, stirring until thickened then stir in the fig relish.
Return the meat and any juices to the pan, bring back to simmering point then cover the pan and turn the heat down to the lowest possible setting (or put in a low oven ( 150° C/300° F/Gas 2). Cook for 3 - 3 1/2 hours until the meat is completely tender. If the stew is cooking too quickly (the top should barely tremble) turn the heat down or remove the lid (You can also do this if you want to thicken the sauce). You can cool the stew at this point and reheat it later or refrigerate it and serve it the next day.
When you’re ready to serve the stew, add the chestnuts and about half a glass of red wine and heat through.
Check the seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste. It should be quite rich and sweet but if you find it too much so (it will depend on the fig conserve and the wine you use) add a few drops of red wine or balsamic vinegar and cook until the vinegar taste disappears. You could serve this with mash (or a mixture of mashed swede and carrot) or pureed parsnips and a dark leafy green vegetable such as spring cabbage or cavolo nero.
What to drink: an Australian shiraz is excellent with this dish but you could also try an Argentine Malbec.
Roast pumpkin and pecan pie
This recipe may look slightly daunting but I promise you it is worth the effort (and the satisfaction of being able to use the leftover pumpkin from your pumpkin lanterns). You can use a can of pumpkin puree and ready made sweet pastry or a precooked pastry shell to save time but it won’t taste quite as good. Obviously you could also serve this at a Thanksgiving dinner.
Serves 6
For the pastry
250g plain flour
1 tsp ground ginger
2 tbsp icing sugar
110g chilled butter
25g Cookeen or other vegetable shortening
1 egg yolk (save the white)
Pinch of salt
For the pumpkin puree
500g pumpkin flesh
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar
1/4 tsp mixed spice
15g chilled butter
For the pie filling
The pumpkin puree as described above
100g light muscovado sugar
1 tbsp maple syrup or clear honey
1 1/2 level tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
A pinch of salt
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
3 medium-sized eggs
2 level tbsp plain flour
150ml double cream
For the topping
50g shelled pecans
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar
You will need a deep flan tin 23cm across and 3.5cm deep
First make the pastry. Sift the flour, ginger and icing sugar into a large bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes, cut the butter into the flour then rub lightly with your fingertips until the mixture is the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. Mix the egg yolk with 2 tbsp ice cold water, add to the pastry mix, mix lightly and pull together into a ball, adding extra water if needed. Shape into a flat disc and refrigerate for at least half an hour. (You can also, of course make this in a food processor)
Next make the pumpkin pure. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Scrape away all the pumpkin seeds and fibres surrounding them and cut into even-sized chunks. Put the chunks on a piece of lightly oiled foil. Sprinkle over the bourbon, sugar and mixed spice and dot with the chilled butter. Bring the foil up round the sides and fold over carefully to form a loose but airtight package. Place on a baking dish and cook for 40 minutes until the pumpkin is soft. Carefully open up the foil, cool for a few minutes then tip the pumpkin and juices into a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth.
Roll out the pastry and lower into the tin. Trim the edges and press the base well into the tin. Prick lightly with a fork and chill for another half hour. Cover the pastry case with foil and weight down with baking beans or dried beans. Bake at 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for about 12 minutes then remove the foil and beans, brush the base of the pastry with the reserved egg white to seal it and return to the oven for about 3-4 minutes. Remove the flan case and lower the oven temperature to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5 .
Add the sugar and maple syrup to the pumpkin puree, then the spices, salt and bourbon. Add the eggs one by one, beating them in well then sift in the flour and mix lightly. Finally add the cream and pour the filling into the flan case. Put the tin on a metal baking tray, transfer to the oven and bake for about 50 minutes until the filling is just set and firm, reducing the temperature to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 after about 25 minutes.
About 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time chop the pecans finely (by hand, not machine - you don’t want to reduce them to a powder). Put them in a pan with the sugar and warm gently till the sugar starts to melt. Sprinkle the caramelized nuts evenly over the surface of the tart and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Take the tart out of the oven and cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting it. Serve lukewarm with lightly whipped, sweetened cream
What to drink: Muscats and moscatels go particularly well with this dessert

A Spring Scandinavian Supper for 8
Now that we're firmly into spring here's a menu to celebrate from Danish cookery writer Trine Hahnemann introduced by her Scandi compatriot food writer and blogger Signe Johansen
Signe wrote: Scandinavian food has suddenly become fashionable - and not before time. Indeed there's been a flurry of press coverage recently in the UK reporting the findings of Danish researchers that the much-vaunted 'new Nordic diet' may be healthier and more sustainable than the long-celebrated Mediterranean diet.
You can bet your bottom dollar (or indeed krone) we'll be hearing a lot more about the virtues of Scandinavian cuisine if Danish Chef Trina Hahnemann, author of 'The Scandinavian Cookbook', has anything to do with it.
An avid proponent of seasonal Scandinavian ingredients such as antioxidant-rich berries, wholegrains, wild game and oily fish, Trina sees no reason why we shouldn't adopt the basic precepts of Scandinavian cooking over here. Substituting fish for meat and having a couple of days of meat- or fish-free fare is typical of the Scandinavian diet, something we will all have to get used to in the future.
So if you're curious about the new craze for Scandinavian cuisine, here's an authentic menu created by Trina for a springtime supper that recently took place in London's La Fromagerie.
Although it looks copious, you won't feel stuffed to the gills afterwards, or exhausted from preparing the dishes. In fact you'll likely be surprised how easy it is to entertain hordes of hungry dinner guests with Scandinavian dishes, most of which can be prepared well in advance.
Trina demonstrated how quick and easy it is to cure salmon in the gravadlax fashion. Once the salmon is cured, you then divide the side into as many portions as you need and freeze what you don't use for up to two months - an ideal standby for an impromptu dinner party.
A Scandinavian's cook's repertoire relies on using fresh seasonal ingredients as much as possible and serving proper bread be it the Swedish crisp-style bread that we had at Trina's supper, made by the brilliant Swedish Bakery Peter's Yard, or a wholemeal, grainy loaf so beloved of Scandinavians which leaves you sated but not bloated.
Baking is an important tradition across Scandinavia and anyone who visits Norway, Sweden or Denmark can attest to the wide variety of pastries, cakes, breads and biscuits available throughout the peninsula.
The other trick Scandinavians deploy to great effect is combining sweet and sour ingredients to balance other strong flavours, not unlike Thai food. Trina's classic Scandinavian sweet and sour cucumber salad is quite possibly the simplest, least fussy dish in the world and utterly addictive - a brilliant dish to serve with fish such as hot smoked trout or baked or barbecued salmon or with lamb as suggested below.
Winewise the menu is fairly straightforward, though watch out for the sweetness of the mustard sauce with the gravadlax. I've suggested a variety of wine, beer and schnapps options.
And finally, it wouldn't be a true Scandinavian meal without copious toasts throughout the meal, so make sure your guests' glasses are always topped up. Skal!
TRINA'S MENU
Gravadlax & sweet mustard sauce on rye crispbread
Potato Cake with Salmon Roe and Roast Beetroot
Roast rack of lamb stuffed with mint, apricot and celery served with spinach, minted roast potatoes and sweet and sour cucumber salad
Lemon mousse
Gravadlax & sweet mustard sauce on rye crispbread
The quintessential Scandi starter or amuse for pre-dinner drinks. This is a fabulous crowd-pleaser, but make sure you source your salmon from a reputable fishmonger as it needs to be as fresh as possible. Ask the fishmonger to remove all the scales (insist on this!) as de-scaling is a messy business and you don't want to have to do it at home. Makes enough for 8-10 starters or small nibbles for 20-25 guests
(Note the image above ©Christin Klose at shutterstock.com is a generic image not a photo of the recipe as described below)
Gravadlax
1 salmon fillet, about 2.5kg, taken from the middle of the fish
2 tbsp whole peppercorns
1 tbsp coriander seeds
120g coarse sea salt (Trina suggested Maldon, but any sea salt will do so long as it's not table salt)
170g caster sugar
200g dill, very finely chopped
extra dill sprigs
Sweet mustard sauce:
3 tbsp brown sugar
3 tbsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp vegetable oil
100g dill, chopped
Start by freezing the salmon for 24 hours to destroy any harmful bacteria. Then defrost it.Remove pinbones from the salmon and trim the edges of the fillet. Place the fillet skin-side down on a sheet of cling film. In a pestle and mortar, crush the peppercorns and coriander seeds and mix with the salt and sugar. Spread the finely-chopped dill evenly over the salmon, then cover with the spiced sugar mixture. Cut the salmon into two equal portions. Lay three of the dill sprigs over one piece then cover with the other piece of fish, laying it flesh-side down. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 2 days.
To make the sauce, place the ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Finally, when you're ready to serve the gravadlax, unwrap the fish and wipe off all the salt and sugar mixture with a paper towel (much of the salt and sugar will have absorbed into the fish during the curing process, this is just to tidy the fish!).
With a salmon slicer or long sharp knife, cut from one end of the salmon on a slant towards the centre so you get thin slices of gravadlax. Serve with crisp rye bread, rye toast or wholemeal or soda bread. (Blinis also work, but aren't terribly Scandinavian) Be sparing with the sauce as it's quite potent. You can also add a small dollop of sour cream and a sprig of dill for garnish.
Drinks suggestions:Aquavit,Prosecco, off-dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer or, as Trina suggests (and I agree), an ice cold beer!
Potato Cake with Salmon Roe and Roast Beetroot
Not far from potato rosti, but less oily, potato cakes are a superb foil for salmon roe. The original recipe calls for lumpfish roe, but if you can't source it go for salmon.
Beetroot:
A bunch of fresh beets (about 500g)
juice of 1 lime
salt and pepper
Potato cakes:
600g potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
4 spring onions, finely chopped
4 medium eggs
4 tbsp oatmeal
1 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tsp grated nutmeg
1 tbsp thyme leaves
2 tbsp olive oil
to serve:
2 tbsp chopped chives
150ml half-fat creme fraiche or sour cream
400g salmon roe
Preheat the oven to 180C (Gas 4). Put the beetroot on a baking tray and cook them in the oven for 30 minutes. Take them out and let them cool slightly before peeling them. Cut the beetroot into very small cubes and toss them in the lime juice and seasonings.
Make the potato cakes: in a mixing bowl, combine the grated potatoes, spring onions, eggs, oatmeal, sesame seeds, nutmeg, thyme leaves and some salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Use a small spoon to form small cakes and place them in the oil, pressing down lightly so they are flat. Fry on each side for 5 minutes or until crisp.
Meanwhile, stir the chopped chives into the creme fraiche.Put the potato cakes on a serving dish. Top each with 1 tablespoon of the lumpfish roe, 1/2 tablespoon of the beetroot salad and some of the chive cream. Lastly grind some pepper over the top and serve straight away.
Drinks suggestion: Traditionally Scandinavians would drink aquavit and beer with this starter but you could serve a dry, crisp ros
Roast leg of lamb stuffed with mint, apricot and celery served with spinach and minted roast potatoes
2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
75g organic dried apricots, coarsely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
30 mint leaves
2 kg leg of lamb, boned
Salt and pepper
Spinach
3 kg spinach leaves
50g butter
1/2 tsp nutmeg
Potatoes
1 kg new potatoes, halved
3 mint sprigs
4 tbsp olive oil
Preheat the oven to 200C (Gas 6). Mix the celery, apricots and garlic with the mint leaves*.Lay the lamb out on a chopping board. Rub the top with salt and pepper, and spread the mint-apricot mixture over the surface. Roll it to encase the stuffing.Take some kitchen string and tie it around the lamb at even intervals to make a roasting joint. Place the lamb in a roasting tin and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 1 hour 20 minutes.
Meanwhile prepare the spinach - remove any tough stems and rinse the spinach several times under cold water. Drain and set aside in a colander.
Parboil the new potatoes with one of the mint sprigs in a large saucepan of salted water until the potatoes are tender. Drain well.Pick the leaves from the remaining mint sprigs. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan and fry the cooked potatoes with the mint leaves. Season with salt and pepper.
To cook the spinach, simply melt the butter in a large saute pan. Add the spinach, nutmeg, salt and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until the spinach wilts. Take it off the heat immediately, being careful not to over-cook.
Finally, carve the roast lamb into slices and serve immediately with the spinach, new potatoes and sweet and sour cucumber salad below
* you could also add some spices such as cinnamon, coriander or fennel seeds to the stuffing ingredients
Drink suggestions:Almost any medium to full bodied red would work with this but I'd favour a red Bordeaux or Meritage blend
Sweet and sour cucumber salad
300ml white vinegar
75g caster sugar
1 cucumber, cut into paper-thin slices
Lemon juice and/or zest (optional)
Combine the sugar and vinegar in a saucepan and heat gently stirring the mixture to make sure all the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave to simmer for 5 minutes,. Set aside to cool, add the cucumber then leave for another 30 minutes
Lemon Mousse
A zesty, tangy dessert, perfect as a palate-cleanser after the roast lamb.
serves 8
4 gelatine leaves
3 eggs, separated
75g caster sugar
100ml double cream
juice of 3 lemons
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest (preferably from an unwaxed lemon)
Cream to serve
Immerse the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for about.5 minutes. In a mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together until pale and fluffy. In another large mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites until the foam forms stiff peaks. In a separate bowl, whip the double cream until it forms soft peaks.Lift the gelatine out of the water and melt it in a small saucepan over a very gentle heat. Turn off the heat, pour in the lemon juice and add the zest. Slowly pour the gelatine mixture into the egg yolk mixture, stirring all the time. Set aside in a cool place until the mousse is starting to set.Fold in the egg whites and the whipped cream. Pour into one large serving dish or several small dishes and chill for a couple of hours in the refrigerator. Serve with a dollop of cream or even better - creme fraiche or sour cream - and a sprig of mint or some candied lemon zest and accompany with small crisp biscuits like langues de chat.
Drink suggestion: a chilled shot of apple schnapps
Recipes come from The Scandinavian Cookbook by Trine Hahnemann. For more Scandinavian recipes visit Trina's website and Signe's blog Scandilicious.
La Fromagerie is at 2-6 Moxon StreetLondon W1W 4EW.

Lyndey Milan's Aussie-style barbecue lunch
One of the highlights of my trip to Australia a few years ago to celebrate the World’s 50 Best restaurant awards was lunch at one of their best known cookery writers Lyndey Milan’s in Sydney
We all sat round a big table and ate this marvellous menu to show off Aussie produce. I loved the structure of the meal - a few oysters to start with, the incredibly fresh, zesty marinated fish, the richly spiced barbecued lamb and salad then simple platters of cheese and fruit - so easy to do at home.
I persuaded Lyndey to give us two of the recipes so do give them a try.
Coriander cured seabass with daikon, shiso and a ginger shallot dressing
Lyndey attributes this recipe to Time Browne, executive chef of the Sydney showground but has given it a couple of twists of her own. She used barramundi in the original version but says you could equally well use any firm-textured fish. You can also use whatever micro leaves you can get hold of.
Serves 6
Ingredients:
500gm seabass fillet (no skin or bones)
Cure
1 bunch coriander
100g rock salt
100g caster sugar
Zest of 1 lime
Salad
1 Daikon radish
1 cucumber
1 punnet micro shiso leaves
1 punnet micro mizuna lettuce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Dressing
2 tbsp fresh ginger
6 shallots
1 tablespoon lime juice
¼ cup soy sauce
½ tsp caster sugar
2 tsp sesame oil
3 tbsp grape seed oil
Method:
In a food processor blend the coriander, salt, sugar and lime zest to a smooth paste. Rub the paste all over the barramundi and refrigerate for 3 hours to cure. (Be sure to cover all of the fish to ensure even curing).
Using a moist clean cloth, rub all the paste off the barramundi.
Cut barramundi into thin slices.
For the salad:
Shave the daikon and cucumber into a bowl. Add the sesame seeds and toss lightly.
For the dressing:
Thinly slice the ginger and shallot. Place in a heat proof bowl with lime juice, soy and sugar
Heat the sesame and grape seed oils together in a pan until they reach smoking point. Pour over the ginger and shallot mixture. (Be careful as the oil is hot). This will sear the ginger and shallots and bring all the flavours together. Allow to cool.
Arrange seabass slices and salad on a plate. Spoon the dressing over the barramundi and salad. Scatter with micro leaves and sprinkle with extra toasted sesame seeds.
Macadamia crusted butterflied lamb with 'okkah'
The okkah (Australian dukkah) for this recipe is inspired by my friend chef Ray Kersh from the legendary Edna’s Table which championed indigenous ingredients for 30 years..
Prep: 20min
Cooking: 20 min plus resting time
Serves: 4 as a main or 8 as part of a menu
1.5kg butterflied shoulder of lamb
2 tbls (40ml) extra virgin olive oil
Macadamia Okkah
1/3 cup unsalted macadamias
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
3 teaspoons coriander seeds
3 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons wattle seeds (optional)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon sea salt Flakes
coarsely ground black pepper or native pepperberry
1. For macadamia okkah; preheat oven to 180’C (160’C fan) place macadamia, sesame, coriander, cumin, wattle and fennel seeds on a paper-lined oven tray. Toast for 5 – 8 minutes, or until lightly fragrant. Cool then process with salt and pepper. This makes 1 ¼ cups.
2. Pre-heat BBQ to high. If lamb is uneven in thickness, beat with a rolling pin or meat mallet between two double sheets of plastic wrap. It may be easier to cut into two flattish pieces. Rub with oil and then rub all over with around ½ cup okkah.
3. Seal lamb for 5 minutes on each side, or until browned. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to cook for another 10 minutes on each side, turning as often as needed to prevent burning. Cook more for well done, less for rare.
6. Remove lamb and rest, loosely cover with foil for 10 minutes. Slice thickly and sprinkle with some extra okkah if desired
Lyndey’s Note: this recipe makes 1 ¼ cups okkah but only ½ cup is needed for this recipe. Store the remainder in an airtight container or serve with fresh bread and extra virgin olive oil.
© Lyndey Milan. This recipe first appeared in Selector Magazine Nov/Dec 2016
WARNING: this recipe includes nuts
What to drink:
Lyndey suggests a sauvignon blanc or a sake with the seabass but in fact we drank a McLaren Vale Fiano on the day. A Hunter Valley semillon would also work well. With the lamb we drank a Stargazer pinot noir from Tasmania which was a really good match.

A Middle-Eastern inspired barbecue for eight
Here's a barbecue I've dug out of the archives - a middle-eastern inspired BBQ from my book Food, Wine and Friends.
The centrepiece is a spiced, butterflied leg of lamb served with a delicious Turkish-style bulghur wheat salad called Kisir. Finish with grilled nectarines or, if you prefer to have your dessert prepared ahead, some refreshing wine jellies.
I’m not a big fan of starters with barbecues but you could offer a selection of bought-in mezze - some hummus and beetroot dip (Waitrose does a good one in their new Levant range) stuffed vine leaves, olives and flatbread. If you want to add a home-made element (which always gives the impression you’ve made the lot!) try my charred aubergine salad.
Charred Aubergine Salad
There’s a popular middle-eastern dip which involves charring or roasting an aubergine then gouging out the flesh and making a dip. I’ve never been really grabbed by it because a) it takes ages to make b) turns a dirty beige colour and c) you discard the skin which is the best bit. Here’s the solution - a salad which includes all those lovely smoky flavours.
Serves 4-6 as part of a selection of starters. Double the quantities if serving it one its own
2 medium or 1 large aubergine (about 500g)
4 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion (about 100g), peeled and roughly chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
2 medium tomatoes, skinned, de-seeded and diced
2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley and 1 tbsp chopped mint leaves
1 - 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp ground cumin
Salt and pepper
Cut the stalks off each aubergine, cut in half lengthways then cut into cubes. Heat a wok for about 2 minutes over a high heat, add the oil, heat for a few seconds then tip in the aubergine cubes. Stir fry over a moderate heat for about five minutes until lightly browned then turn the heat down low, add the onion and garlic, stir, cover the pan and cook gently for a further 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Tip the aubergine into a shallow dish while you prepare the other ingredients. When the aubergine is cool (about 20 minutes), cut it up roughly with a knife and fork then mix in the chopped tomato, parsley and mint. Season with lemon juice, cumin and salt and pepper and serve with warm pitta bread.
6 good wine pairings for aubergine/eggplant
Butterflied leg of lamb with cumin, lemon and garlic
A butterflied leg of lamb - one where the bone is removed and the meat opened up to create a huge flat piece of meat - is one of the tastiest, simplest and most impressive dishes to barbecue. Order it in advance from a butcher and he’ll do all the hard work for you.
Serves 8
1 large butterflied leg of lamb (about 2-2.5kg)
For the marinade
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp Herbes de Provence
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/4 tsp crushed chillies
Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp)
3 tbsp olive oil
Put the garlic, sea salt, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, Herbes de Provence, black peppercorns and chillies in a mortar and pound with a pestle until the garlic breaks down and you have a thick paste. (Or whizz them in a spice grinder) Gradually work in the lemon juice and oil. Work over the meat with a small, sharp knife, cutting away any excess fat then cut the meat into two or three manageable pieces. Put the meat in a roasting tin, rub in the marinade, cover and leave in a cool place for at least 2 hours. Heat a gas barbecue to the maximum setting or light a charcoal barbecue and cook over an indirect heat for 15-20 minutes depending on the thickness of the meat and how well you like it cooked, turning it half way through the cooking time. Remove to a platter or carving dish, cover lightly with foil and rest for 15 minutes. Slice thinly and serve with kisir (below), a mixed leaf salad and some warm flatbread.
Kisir
This Turkish-inspired recipe is the perfect party salad. You can vary it depending on what you have available substituting walnuts for hazelnuts or pistachios for example, adding some olives or some finely snipped dried apricots or replacing the dill with fresh coriander.
Serves 8
250g bulghur (cracked wheat)
50g roasted hazelnuts, chopped
50g shelled pistachios, roughly chopped
5-6 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
1/2 a cucumber, peeled, de-seeded and finely chopped
1 red ramiro pepper, halved, de-seeded and finely chopped
3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped
1 pomegranate
Juice of 2 lemons (about 6 tbsp)
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp pomegranate syrup or 2 tsp balsamic vinegar and 1 tsp sugar
5 tbsp finely chopped parsley
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
3 tbsp finely chopped dill
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the bulghur in a large bowl and pour over enough boiling water to just cover the grain. Leave for 15 minutes for the liquid to absorb then pour over plenty of cold water, swirl the grain around and tip the grain into a sieve. Squeeze the grain with your hands to extract any excess water and return the grain to the bowl. Add the chopped nuts, sliced spring onions, and chopped cucumber, pepper and tomatoes (including the seeds and pulp). Halve the pomegranate and scoop out the seeds, reserving the juice and discarding the pith. Add the pomegranate seeds to the salad. Whisk the lemon juice and reserved pomegranate juice with the salt, cumin and chilli flakes, whisk in the olive oil and pomegranate syrup or balsamic vinegar and sugar and season with salt and pepper. Tip into the salad and mix well. Finally mix in the chopped herbs. Toss well together and check the seasoning adding more salt, pepper or lemon juice to taste. Cover and set aside for at least an hour for the flavours to infuse.
Grilled nectarines with Greek yoghurt and honey
You can barbecue fruit just as easily as vegetables though it helps to have a separate rack to lay them on so they don’t fall off or end up tasting of garlic and spices!
Serves 8
6-8 medium sized ripe nectarines
50g butter
Flavourless cooking oil
1 tbsp unrefined caster sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 large carton Greek yoghurt
Some good, preferably Greek, runny honey
Run a knife vertically round the outside of each nectarine, cutting through to the stone. Holding one half of the fruit in each hand, twist them in different directions to pull them apart. Cut out the stone if it hasn’t come away. Melt the butter gently in a small saucepan or microwave and brush or smear it over the nectarine halves. Lightly grease a rack with flavourless oil and lay the peaches on it, cut side downwards. Barbecue for 10-15 minutes (depending how hot your barbecue is) turning them half way through the cooking time and sprinkling the cinnamon sugar over them. Serve with dollops of Greek yoghurt and drizzle with honey.
* If you haven’t got enough heat left in the barbecue roast the peaches in a lightly oiled roasting tin at 220°C/425°F/Gas 7 for 15 minutes, turning them as described above.
Wine (and other) pairings for peaches and nectarines
Sparkling Shiraz and Summer Berry Jellies
Serves 8
About 6 sheets of gelatine (but check the pack for the amount you need for the amount of liquid you’re using)
750ml sparkling shiraz or other sparkling red wine
6-8 tbsp sugar syrup*
600g mixed berries - strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, black currants or redcurrants
2-3 tbsp caster sugar, depending how ripe your fruit is
Place the gelatine in a flat dish and sprinkle over 4 tbsp cold water. Leave to soak for 3 minutes until soft. Heat the sparkling shiraz in a microwave or saucepan until hot but not boiling. Tip the soaked gelatine into the wine and stir to dissolve then set aside to cool. Rinse the berries, cut the strawberries into halves or quarters then put them into a shallow bowl, sprinkle over 2-3 tablespoons of sugar and leave them to macerate. Check the liquid jelly for sweetness adding sugar syrup to taste - you’ll probably need 6-8 tablespoons. Put an assortment of berries in the bottom of eight glasses or glass dishes then pour over enough jelly to cover them. Put the glasses in the fridge to chill. As soon as the jelly in the glasses has set (about an hour) add the rest of the fruit and jelly. Return to the fridge to set for another 45 minutes to an hour before serving with cream or vanilla ice cream
* To make the sugar syrup dissolve 125g of sugar in 150ml of water. Heat gently together in a pan then when all the grains are dissolved, bring to the boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. You can use the syrup immediately or cool it and store it for up to two weeks in the fridge.
Sparkling Nectarine and Blueberry Jellies
Serves 8
6 sheets of gelatine ((but check the pack for the amount you need for the amount of liquid you’re using)
750ml sparkling peach flavoured wine
200g fresh blueberries
3 medium-sized ripe nectarines
2 tbsp lemon juice
Place the gelatine in a flat dish and sprinkle over 4 tbsp cold water. Leave to soak for 3 minutes until soft. Heat the peach cocktail in a microwave or saucepan until hot but not boiling. Tip the gelatine into the peach wine and stir to dissolve then set aside to cool. Cut round the nectarines and twist each half in opposite directions to pull them apart. Cut them into cubes and sprinkle with lemon juice. Rinse the blueberries. Put a few blueberries and cubes of nectarine in the bottom of eight glasses or glass dishes then pour over jelly to cover. Put the glasses in the fridge to chill. As soon as the jelly in the glasses has set add the remaining fruit and jelly. Return to the fridge to set for another 45 minutes to an hour before serving.
What to drink:
I’d drink a crisp lemony white such as a Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda or Greek Assyrtiko or a rosé with the mezze. Almost any ripe, fruity medium-bodied red you enjoy would work with the lamb - I’d probably go for a Merlot, Syrah or Languedoc red such as Faugères or Minervois (you might also offer pomegranate juice for non-drinkers which would go very well with the salad). If you’re serving the nectarines you could serve a chilled Greek or southern French Muscat. The jellies are probably boozy enough already!
Top picture by Food Via Lenses at shutterstock.com though not a picture of the actual recipe. (You have to get the book for that 😉)

A Greek-inspired summer supper
With this unseasonably hot weather why not look to Greece for inspiration when you're entertaining. Here's a simple meal for 4 that was inspired by a trip to Greece a few years ago.
Watermelon, feta and toasted pumpkin seed salad
One of my favourite summer salads - so fresh and simpleServes 4
40g pumpkin seeds
1/2 a ripe watermelon (about 800g)
200g feta cheese
Greek or other olive oil for drizzling
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat a frying pan over a moderate heat. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast for 3-4 minutes shaking the pan occasionally until they start to change colour. Tip onto a plate to cool. Cut the watermelon flesh away from the rind, discard the seeds and cut into generously sized chunks. Divide between 4 plates. Drain any liquid surrounding the cheese, divide into 4 and crumble it roughly over the watermelon. Sprinkle over the toasted pumpkin seeds and drizzle over a little olive oil. Season with freshly ground black pepper and serve with Greek bread or warm sesame or wholewheat pitta bread, cut into quarters
Grilled lamb steaks with lemon, honey and mint
Serves 4 1 heaped tsp Greek or other strongly flavoured clear honey
3 tbsp Greek or other olive oil
3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 clove of garlic, crushed
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint
4 lamb steaks, about 150g each
Spoon the honey into a shallow dish, add the oil and mix together with a wooden spoon. Add the lemon juice garlic and mint and mix well. Trim any excess fat off the lamb steaks and place in the marinade, turning them so both sides are coated. Leave in the marinade for 30 minutes, turning them a couple of times.
Heat a ridged grill pan for about 3 minutes until almost smoking. Remove the lamb steaks, shaking off any excess marinade and lay in the pan. Cook for 2-3 minutes depending on the thickness of the steaks then turn them over and cook for another 2-3 minutes depending how rare you like your lamb. Remove the lamb steaks and set aside on a plate to rest for 5 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat. Carve each steak on a slant into 3 thick slices and arrange on each plate. Pour any accumulated juices back into the pan along with the marinade and a splash of water, let it bubble up in the residual heat and pour the juices over the steaks. Serve with the orange and rocket salad below and sea-salt potatoes.
* You can obviously cook the steaks on a barbecue if you prefer
Wild rocket, orange and dill salad
I tasted a salad similar to this in a restaurant in Athens last year and found it refreshingly differentServes 4
2 oranges
4 tbsp Greek or other olive oil
2 tbsp finely snipped fresh dill
A small pack of wild rocket
50g small black olives, marinated in herbs (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Peel one of the oranges by scoring it in quarters round the outside and plunging it in boiling water for 3-4 minutes. Drain off the water, and peel away the rind removing as much pith as possible. Cut the orange across into thick slices and then into small triangular segments, again removing any excess pith. Squeeze the juice from the other orange and whisk with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the dill. When ready to serve divide the rocket between 4 plates, scatter over the orange pieces and a few olives, if using, and spoon over the dressing
Sea-salt potatoes
Cooking potatoes with hardly any oil or water gives them the lovely mealy texture of a baked potato. You could also cook them on a barbecue if you’re barbecuing the lamb.Serves 4
500g baby new potatoes, washed and dried
1 tbsp Greek or other olive oil
Maldon sea salt
Take a casserole or large, lidded frying pan big enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer. Heat the casserole over a moderate heat, add the oil then tip in the potatoes. Give the pan a good shake and cover. Cook for about 25-40 minutes depending on the size of the potatoes and the thickness of the pan, shaking the pan regularly to ensure the potatoes brown evenly. Add a tablespoon of water now and then if they seem to be catching. When the potatoes are tender sprinkle over some Maldon sea salt, rubbed between your fingers.
Roast figs with walnuts and honey, Greek yoghurt
The Greeks are very keen on walnuts which are always served incredibly fresh. Make sure you use a freshly opened packet.Serves 4
75g walnuts, roughly chopped
2 tbsp clear Greek or other strongly flavoured clear honey + extra to serve
8 small to medium or 4 large fresh figs
Greek yoghurt to serve
A little oil for greasing the baking dish
Pre-heat the oven to 225°C/425°F/Gas 7. Trim any stalk off the top of the fig and
cut into quarters two thirds of the way down the fruit. Stack the figs upright side by side in a lightly greased baking dish. Mix the chopped walnuts with the honey. Take small spoonfuls of the walnut mixture and press it gently into the centre of each fruit. Roast the figs for 10 minutes. Stir the yoghurt until smooth. Serve the figs with a generous dollop of yoghurt with some extra honey drizzled over the top.
What to drink:
Unusually this is a meal where you could take the same wine through the first and second courses. A zesty white like a Greek Assyrtiko or a citrussy Sauvignon Blanc (from, say, California, Chile or the Adelaide Hills in Australia) would suit both the feta salad and the lamb. Alternatively you could switch to a ripe soft red for the main course such as a Merlot, Syrah or southern French red such as Faugères or, if you want to stick to Greek wines, an Agiorgitiko.
With the dessert don't miss the opportunity to try an exotic Muscat from the Greek island of Samos, one of the best bargains in the wine world.
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